milwaukee m12 drill chuck replacement

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screwdriver milwaukee cordless volt electric batteries speed kit zozeen power It's not just you. My M12 2403 drill has a horrible chuck. I just put a Rohm chuck on it, and it runs great; perfectly true. 2407 JavaScript is disabled. I work at a construction firm, and saw a Milwaukee drill in the dumpster, labeled "bad chuck.". the one has a red stripe on it. I have an older (maybe 10years old) Milwaukee 18v hammer drill, and the chuck has always been a weak point. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DD7KS5O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1, https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=385961&highlight=rohm, https://www.amazon.com/Superior-Electric-ST13B-Keyless-Drill/dp/B003Z2O4CK.

selfeed 1372 If you do a little searching, I'm sure you'll find the concrete answer. About five years ago, I bought a 2604-20 M18 drill. The newest chuck is in this video (1:05 for PN). However, it seems JavaScript is either disabled or not supported by your browser. But the chuck has ALWAYS sucked on this thing. Access My Account, Order History, Lists and more here.

For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. I literally just got mine back from service. Real PITA watching your drill bit fall out when up on a ladder.

It's not just the M18s. I think the model I have is 2704 (it was the start of the 2nd gen brushless drills) and they switched to a 9/16" threaded chuck at that point. JavaScript must be enabled in order for you to use this site. You are using an out of date browser. I've hated it for the entire 3 years I've owned it. I use Milwaukee at work, I am a makita guy at my home shop and never had any issues at home with my 15 year old gear except batteries wear out. Chucks are easy to replace, particularly when drill is new and unused. The chuck on my M12 gen 1 hammer drill wouldn't hold anything tight. My old 2604 has never slipped on a bit. I bought the latest gen fuel hammer/drill and it has a WAY better chuck. Cordless Hammer Drill Kit: 12V DC, Gen Purpose, ~Power Tools~Power Drills~Cordless Hammer Drills, (1) Bare Tool, (1) Charger, (2) Batteries, (2) M12 REDLITHIUM CP1.5 Battery Pack(48-11-2401), Belt Clip, Carrying Case, M12 3/8 in Hammer Drill/Driver (Tool Only)(2408-20), M12 Lithium-ion Battery Charger (48-59-2401). I know TOT was complaining about his chuck and has replaced it twice in videos. Or is this just an issue with my older generation drill? Let me know in the comments! The new chuck it much better. I'm pretty sure that the hard stopping from the brake is what causes it. 12-Volt Lithium-Ion Keyless Chuck (Tool-Only). Strictly anecdotal, but I haven't had any problems with the chuck on my drill. Maybe they started sourcing from Rohm? Milwaukee Industrial Drill Chucks Cordless Drills, 349 product ratings - Milwaukee 2407-20 New M12 12V 3/8" Chuck Drill Driver 2-Speed LED Tool and Batt, 185 product ratings - OEM Part Chuck Assembly for Milwaukee 2606-20 M18 Cordless 1/2" Drill DRIVER, 349 product ratings - Milwaukee 2407-20 M12 12V 3/8" Chuck Drill Driver w/ 2 batteries and Charger, 349 product ratings - Milwaukee M12 Drill/Driver 3/8 in. Do the newer drills have better chucks? It slips, it tears up bits, and has jus generally failed since day 1. It's a superior electric model. After a bit of that, it wouldn't hold the bit tight any more.

I really like the rest of my M12 & M18 tools. DC, you just have to find out what size threads are on the bottom of that chuck. Had a Hitachi drill that the braking action would always loosen the bit after a few trigger pulls no matter what. It won't stay tight on the bit. didn't this old Tony have a video on this? Something went wrong.

I was having to use large Channel-locks to remove the bits. Good to see some options though in case it has issues later on. Either way, anyone ever tried replacing the chuck for another? DC, you just have to find out what size threads are on the bottom of that chuck. I sent mine in to get replaced. So I am a Milwaukee guy Not because of any kind of brand loyalty, but simply because Im tied to the battery. It would lock onto a bit so tight I had to use Channelocks to get it open. I had mine warrantied because it wobbled badly, making it useless for anything but rough framing.

The 'new' chuck looks different and seems much better. There seems to be a problem serving the request at this time, One stop shop for all things from your favorite brand, Milwaukee Industrial Drill Chucks Corded Drills, {"modules":["unloadOptimization","bandwidthDetection"],"unloadOptimization":{"browsers":{"Firefox":true,"Chrome":true}},"bandwidthDetection":{"url":"https://ir.ebaystatic.com/cr/v/c1/thirtysevens.jpg","maxViews":4,"imgSize":37,"expiry":300000,"timeout":250}}, Milwaukee 2803-22 18V Cordless Drill Driver Kit, Milwaukee M18 Compact Brushless 1/2 inch Drill Bare Tool - 2801-20. Ryan, I put a Rohm chuck on my gen 2 drill. I can't say that I've had any issues myself, but yeah, chucks are a known weak point for them. Does that drill not have a spindle lock? Swapped in a Rohm and haven't regretted it for a second. Does anyone else have this issue with their Milwaukee chucks? You must log in or register to reply here. May have to check out the new version of the fuel drill if it's supposedly better. It hasn't seen a crazy amount of use in the year and a half I've had it but it's performed flawlessly thus far.

He says the new design is much better, both in terms of spinning true, and holding the bits. I've always felt the M12 drills I've used have garbage chucks. Factor it into the cost when buying a new drill & get on with life. Used 1/8 and 3/8 bits and finished with a reamer. I had the same issue and bought 2 more bare tools of the newer generations (I had the first gen non fuel and fuel) and the chucks were only slightly better.

My old V18 has one so I figured all the newer M** stuff would have it?? If I werent so invested in the Milwaukee batteries, Id be soooo tempted to switch to Bosch and only because I actually really dig their drill. Makes me feel better its a known problem anyway. I had problem with my clutch slipping and I didn't even use the drill that often. I wouldn't bother warranting a Milwaukee drill chuck, forget it. It may not display this or other websites correctly. Anyhow, after tearing up yet another bit today I decided to test the water here on the Garage Journal.

Copyright 1995-2022 eBay Inc. All Rights Reserved. Knowing any warranty replacement was likely to have the same issues, I installed a rohm chuck and it runs true. Why suffer every time you use you drill due to insisting on using a garbage Milwaukee chuck.

It has served me well. My old M18 (about 9 years old) still has a good chuck, despite years of heavy abuse. The original had bad runnout out of the box. I have the second gen M12 drill which had 1/2-20 threads so I used the same Rohm chuck I mentioned to Ryan above.

The chuck ran fairly true, but started acting up. But Milwaukee did a warranty repair on the drill and it works fine now. Enable JavaScript by changing your browser options, and then try again. This Milwaukee cordless hammer drill applies a hammering action while drilling to power through tough materials, such as masonry. I've seen the complaint in threads here, and a friend of mine has had several chucks replaced under warranty. Your drill is one generation older and might have 1/2" threads on it. Sign In to access your account information. A friend who uses his for work got a few warrantied by Milwaukee. Milwaukee made it right, like they always have in my experience. Really well. Drilled 20 3/4 holes in my semi frame for an extended 5th wheel slider. Hoping for a success story of some kind. The low speed gears stripped out, so I bought a 2804.

What I hate about mine is the horrible run out. Your best bet is to replace it when brand new with a Rohm or Jacobs or even a decent Chinese chuck is better. View cart for details.

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